Monday, November 14, 2011

Vitamins in Vietnam

Our very last stop. Boy, does time fly... and what a way to go out in style. A 2 week pit stop in South East Asia led us to Vietnam, a country with rich history, hilarious people and delicious food!

Hanoi

We started in Hanoi, northern Vietnam with the intention to do the typical ‘north to south’ adventure many travellers embark on. To say that the streets are hectic is an understatement, with so many scooters, motorbikes, bikes and the occasional car zipping in and out of the tiny winding streets.

Highlight: eating BBQed frog on a skewer at a dingy corner eatery on our first night.


Sapa

After a bumpy but pleasant overnight train, we arrived in semi touristy Sapa, not far from the Chinese border – ready for a few days of ‘hard’ hiking. Ready in our waterproof jackets, boots and with hydration packs, we were ready to meet our guide – expecting a muscular, fit, worldy operator. Instead, we were greeted by Khu, an 18 year old local who was 4 months pregnant! Great times though and would highly recommend her to anyone... As the heavens had opened in the days prior to our walk, the terrain was muddy and slippery, but beautiful nonetheless. We passed endless rice fields, secluded river banks and learnt a thing or two about being self sustainable. We were also fortunate enough to sleep in homestays for 2 nights, both very unique. One night joined by a dozen or so other travellers, sharing experiences and a cuisine to die for, and the other flying solo, eating dinner with the family (who spoke no English) and being poured rice wine after rice wine by the father. Did we mention he had been to a wedding that day and was slightly intoxicated – he may have even pulled out an old school music DVD and delivered on the dance moves!!

Highlight: The amazing scenery and of course, the crazy homestay Dad!



Halong Bay

After returning on the overnight train to Hanoi at 4.00am, we set off again at 8.00am to Halong Bay for a night on a junk boat. The 150km bus rise took just short of 4 hours (hmm, explains the roads...) but we made it on to the boat just in time for lunch. I wish we could paint a picture of seclusion, but we were one of at least 50 wooden boats on the same route as us... Despite this, the whole bay was pretty cool. There are over 1900 islands in this UNESCO World Heritage site, beautiful but hopefully preserved in the future. After an afternoon on the boat and a visit to a cave, we were treated to dinner and a few drinks while chatting to fellow travellers – such a great opportunity to share stories! The following day was a tad rushed, with a morning on the boat and again the mammoth mini bus ride back. Quick but fun.

Highlight: Sitting outside on the boat admiring the different shapes and sizes of the countless islands.

Hoi an

Now, I am not going to beat around the bush – the sleeper bus from Hanoi to Hoian was pretty bad. An experience to say the least. Cramped, bumpy, sleepless, broke down for 2 hours at 6.00am, you get the drift. But after almost 24 hours we made it to Hoi an, and it was well worth it.

So, after a crazy start to Vietnam, we were looking forward to staying in the one place for 3 nights. Hoi an, although again relatively touristy, is well known for its tailors and restaurants. And yes we ate extremely well, and got a jacket each made (and a dress for Bee), even though we were already just over our 60kg luggage limit... who said we couldn’t layer up on the plane! Note: Kimmy – bad; Thong Phi – great! So eating and getting fitted took a large percentage of our time, but we were happy just wandering and exploring. Oh, experimental cooking class, relaxing massage, amazing bike ride... lots of rain, topped off a great few days in Central Vietnam.

Highlight: the cooking class was pretty cool – flipping rice pancakes, rolling spring rolls, simmering fish claypots... hungry anyone?

Ho Chi Minh

Heading further south to our final destination in HCM or Saigon, we learnt after the last sleeper bus experience and booked a last minute flight – much more convenient! 2 major thoughts when we got there: we are so close to home now, and, this city is pretty overdeveloped compared to those in the north. Nonetheless, we had an afternoon of wandering around the crazy city: the intense Binh Tanh market (‘Buy from me’), wandering the streets, induldging in dumplings and finally, the War Remnants Museum. This museum was brilliant, and painted a really interesting and engaging picture of the Vietnam War. A touching afternoon. The next day we embarked on a boat trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels. Again, very insightful and interesting – whereby we were told about the structure of the tunnels, shown ‘fake’ entrances and also traps and weapons and also had the opportunity to squeeze our way through a section of tunnels (which had already been widen for Western bodies!). It is just fascinating that something so complex could be built and maintained, and used so effectively by the Vietnamese. After the long bus ride back, we grabbed our gear and taxied out to the airport KL bound. One more sleep at the Tune Hotel, then back on home soil...


Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Rockin’ in Moroc

Our first steps into Africa were in the streets of Casablanca where we had a few days to kill before our tour started that would take us in and around the most popular destinations of Morocco. Searing heat, glaring eyes and interesting smells were the first greetings for the lucky couple. After seeing so much of mainland Europe we were after a vastly different cultural experience and it looked like Morocco would produce. After the usual tour group introductions including our older and seemingly subdued tour leader Ahmed, we hit the road for our week long road trip.



Mosques, palaces, dance parties (Moroccan style), tasty tagines and spices were the main cultural experiences of the first few days with Bee being paraded like a queen on a human carried chair at one stage (not to mention King Gerard was lucky enough to be selected to have one Queen Bee but also a Queen Argentinean... at the same time!). The Medina in Fez was an initial highlight – a web of streets and walkways with displays and demonstrations on everything Moroccan, from leather production to carpet and clothing colouring and weaving. It was amazing. Another pleasant surprise was the dry humour and knowledge of tour leader Ahmed. Gerard turned into his whipping boy and demonstration king who at one point was taken advantage of and inadverantly tasted soup when it should have been honey! A great man who we struck up a great friendship with.

After passing through the Low Atlas Mountains, we took in Erfoud where our love for fossilised plates was struck up (we spent the next week looking and negotiating for the right price...). An amazing sunset on the highest dunes in Morocco after an average Jeep ride but great camel ride for Bee was a true highlight of the trip. To see these massive dunes get closer and closer with a full stomach of spicy Moroccan soup bouncing around in your stomach is a welcome sight! The oasis that followed us after we arrived in the Atlas Mountains was also quite a sight in a deserted and barren land. To see a little bit of green in the form of date palms was an amazing sight that we didn’t get sick of... Todra Gorge and the Kasbahs were also high up on the list of places and things visited in addition to the drive to our final destination of Marrakesh which took in some sights that remind you of life on Mars and a mountain pass over 2100m high.... Although I’ve never been to Mars. Maybe.



And so, our tour came to an end in the buzzing activity of Marrakesh. Crowded, bustling, cheap food and plenty of tourists. Not exactly our experience of Morocco so far...

After the hustle of Marrakesh it was time for some relax and what better way to knock relax over than a week in a Moroccan fishing village – Taghazout just north of Agadir. Apartment and a chauffeur driven car booked (in the form of Ahmed) it was time to hit the waves. Only issue was we didn’t have any money, the apartment was being barricaded by the ‘minder’ who was refusing to leave and there was no ATM in the village... Cue Chris - the hard working Irishman (about 70 by the way) who happened to own and run the apartments. In between talks about Ireland, reminders of who we were, Paradise (truly by name and nature) and hash we had somehow killed three hours. Our room was ready. Ohh, no hot water. Whoops. Ahh, it just all works out! After a nice wash down with some boiled water on the stove it was time for some cous cous – a treat for all who were staying at the apartments, all troubles forgotten.

The next week was spent dodging camels, horses, goats and rubbish on the sand and also being beaten up by Panorama Beach with Gerard losing his watch and ending day one with a black eye. The food in Taghazout was amazing all week, and for less than $2 a feed we still had some cash to splurge so it was off to ‘Paradise’ for a day’s retreat. A good break from the beach, Paradise was a valley that included a stream and natural rock pool / slide formed in an oasis. Besides catching some rays and jumping off the cliffs into the pools, the little turtles and eating a tagine in a hippy’s hut were definite reminders that we were in paradise without a worry in the world.



Sad to leave Morocco really, an amazing place!